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To roll or not to roll - that is the question.

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Springbok
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To roll or not to roll - that is the question.

Post by Springbok »

As part of my trailer-tent trailer conversion to carry my boat project, I am considering whether to add keel rollers to the trailer’s crossbeams to aid the loading and unloading of the boat on and off the trailer. I have seen some trailers with rollers on both front and rear crossbeams; some with rollers on the rear crossbeams only, and some with no rollers at all. What are your views ?
Also, there also appear to be two types of rollers – either a “cotton-reel” style or a “V” style. Again, any comments ?
Where no rollers are fitted, what sort of padding material has been used to cushion the hull contact areas?

Would someone be so kind as to provide me with some measurements (metric) please? I need the following:
1. Distance from towball to front crossbeam
2. Distance from front crossbeam to rear crossbeam
3. Assuming rollers are fitted, the distance between the centre of the LHS roller to the centre of the RHS roller. (I am assuming that this measurement will be the same for both the front and rear crossbeams). If no rollers are fitted, then the distance between the point at which each hull rests from LHS to RHS.

Many thanks,
Peter
Spark 272
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Steve Willis
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Trailer dimensions

Post by Steve Willis »

Peter,

Thanks for an excuse for a quick walk down the orchard away from data analysis.

I have had a look at both my 15 and 18 trailers.

The 15 trailer has an adjustable front length and is set at 3 metres from tow ball to front beam which is as i bought it with the boat.

Front beam - Rear beam 1.8 metres
Beam width 2.19metres overall - with 300mm long flat rubber on each side - distance between innder edges of rubbers is therefore 1590mm. The ends (about 400mm each side) fold up so you can reduce the trailer width when towing without the boat.

My 18 trailer has a fixed front bar length to main beam of 1.8metres and 2.2 metres between the beams. I changed it from break down hull carrying to taking the hull and beams compllete by adding removable extensions to the carrying beams - rather than fold up ones.

When we tow behind my old land Rover we cannot make a full turn with the shorter front bar and the 15 one is set a bit long - but suits me. I suspect you will need about 2.5 metres, see what others come back with.

Both trailers have the flat rubber pads 300mm by 50mm. I did think about converting to rollers but then had a think about contact surface area and pounds per square inch with the boat tied down hard, The rollers give near point contact whereas the pads give about 3/4 sq inch. As we have some rough section of road and I can use either trailer for either boat with the pads so I thought I would leave the pads as the boat goes on easy enough - the 18 trailer beams are above the wheels at about 450mm high and even that is not a problem.

Steve Willis
Springbok
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To roll or not to roll - that is the question

Post by Springbok »

Steve,

Thanks for that. When you next feel like another wander down to the orchard would you mind checking roughly where on the 300mm rubber strips the hulls rest - ie how far in from the outer edges.
Also, presumably the beams are made from box section or "square tubing" as we call it in the colonies. What size box section has been used ?

Thanks,
Peter
Spark 272
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Steve Willis
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Pad positions

Post by Steve Willis »

Hi,

Difficult to tell too much as there are indents from both 15 and 18 hulls. i think the marks for the 15 are about 120mm out from the inner end of the pad - sounds about right 240mm + 1560mm between inner edges is about hull width at skeg.

Beams are 2x2" on the 15 trailer but 1.5x1.5" on the 18 one (with thicker wall).

I have taken some photos that might help you if you would like to ring me with your e-mail address. I do not want to give my phone number in the forum (phishers!!!!) but you can find it in the Open Fowley Notice of Race (item 14.2) still on the seasaltersailing website adding .org and then .uk on the end of that long word!!!

Steve W
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Post by SSCBen »

Rollers on the back beam are very useful and the skegs seem perfectly strong (even on my old tub) to stand up to the increase in pressure on them.
The rollers do mean that you can get the cat off the trailer by yourself, which is very useful when you turn up back at the sailing club and there is no one around.
Ben
Spark 252 "Skegs Akimbo"
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