Sport mode tips for the uninitiated

[WaveyDavey]

With the unarig nationals aborted in August but the sport nationals going ahead September (all being well) there's never been a better excuse for us hull sitters/hikers to dust off the jib and trapeze harness. Ordinarily I ration my Sprint 15 travelling to two events each year: unarig nationals and the Grafham summer TT/inlands. Since these might be one and the same thing in 2020 a trip to Devon to compete sport mode works out nicely.

Hopefully other unarig regulars will take the plunge too. If, like me, your 'sporting' is limited to an occasional jolly, or you've never done it before, a little research and practice is probably in order.

A good place to start is our excellent tips page where you'll find this article on sport mode technique by Mike Cemm:
https://www.sprint15.com/faq/sprinting.php

To build on that I'd like to invite Sport mode experts and noobs alike to share their knowledge and experience here.

A few things I learned or practised over a couple of outings back in July:

Trapeze line cleats - If you have the old-style trapeze line adjustment where you pull the rope upwards to cleat it (I did) then you may want to replace them. Clamcleat CL253 or similar where the rope locks downwards are easier to adjust while on the wire and less prone to releasing themselves (an alarming event!). New Sprint 15s come with the Clamcleat I believe.

Jib sheets and tacking - As some point before each tack take all the slack out of the jib sheet that's not in use (the windward one) and cleat it. Once the boat is through the wind and you release the 'old' sheet, the 'new' one will already be most of the way in - a single pull will have it quickly close hauled with minimal flapping about.

Sheet Cleat Angles - Check your mainsheet, traveller and jib sheet cleat angles are perfectly set so you can reliably release, adjust and cleat with confidence from the wire. Mine were fine for unarig sailing, but my traveller in particular was a problem from the wire (I think I've bent the plate downwards a few degrees at some point)

Sheet Lengths - Jib sheet just long enough to allow the jib to be fully furled. Mainsheet..., well, shorter than mine! I have way too much but haven't measured it or decided how much to remove yet. Excess rope always ends up tangled around my feet and/or over the back of the boat.

Furling the jib - Whatever you do release any load on the mainsheet first. If its a stiff breeze I find I also need to point the boat downwind to reduce flogging and ease tension in the forestay/jib furler. Attempting to furl on a windy day with the boat pointed windward, even with mainsheet right off, ended in a half-furled mess and a close encounter with a lee shore.

[George Love]

Hi All
Some really good tips here from Dave on how to really enjoy the thrills of sailing in Sport mode which, in my view, makes the boat come alive and is a real boon for old gits like me when going upwind - saves all that hiking and exploding kneecaps!
Just a couple of thoughts to add if I may:
1. It's a good idea to fix some grippy tape to the hull just below the deck line which helps to keep a good foothold when trapezing in chop.
2. Trapezing:
- might sound obvious, but always wear your harness under your buoyancy aid as a safety measure in case you need to jettison your buoyancy aid in a hurry e.g. if you're trapped under the boat and need to go down before you go up to the surface.
- if your trapeze harness has a non return clip on the hook, cut it off/remove it so that the trapeze rings will not get stuck on the harness. So long as the trapeze wire is under load from your own bodyweight, you won't fall off the wire but you don't want to get stuck on the wire because the ring will not disengage when you want it to.
3. Always carry a razor sharp knife in a pocket on the front of your buoyancy aid and tied on with a bit of string. In the unlikely event you do get trapped under a capsized boat whilst still connected to the trapeze, you can cut the trapeze ropes without fear of losing the knife. If things get desperate, you can even slash the trampoline and pop your head through the hole. Whilst you'll need a new trampoline, you'll still be around to dine out on the story.
And please have a laugh at my expense on the occasion I gave a land-based demonstration on the beach at Instow on how to trapeze. The grippy tape wasn't working properly - well, that's my excuse - see YouTube link below
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fc00ZPEPJW8
See you at Instow for fun and frolics. It's a great place to sail.
Cheers & Laughter

[Mark Aldridge]

Wise words from the pro's & I'll have my annual practice & warm up on the way to the 1st start assuming there's enough wind!

[Mark Aldridge]

..oh and don't forget your bicycles for the Barnstaple Beer run along the Tarka Trail..

[WaveyDavey]

Racing was cancelled at Marconi yesterday as the breeze was a bit brisk for the first half, but it moderated eventually in the afternoon and 4 Sprints set out for some sport mode "practice" - i.e. hacking around the river a bit dangling from the wire.

It will come as no surprise to anyone who's seen my previous sport mode attempts that my biggest challenge is "rope management" - Pete R is still teasing me about an outing I made 5 years ago with arms, legs and ropes flailing everywhere!

Jib Sheet - Like most I only have the rear-most toe-loop. This is generally a good thing, but means the tip to leave the jib sheet just over the edge of the boat between shroud and front loop is not an option. The jib sheet tends to wash back into the boat, or around my front foot or right over the side.

Main/Traveller Sheet - I try to have the traveller and main ends at hand (only mainsheet actually in hand) but the spare bit between is a pain. I have just enough to throw it back on the tramp, but not enough that it will stay there. Tried 'flaking' it across my legs/lap, where it stays for a while but eventually slides off to one side or other. Once one bit touches the water its soon all streaming behind.

Confession #1: I have a relatively soft 10mm mainsheet (tied end-to-end with separate 8mm traveller line). I suspect it is more inclined to fall into the water and has more weight/drag once in the water vs lightweight 8mm sheet. I have this arrangement because soft 10mm gives better grip, control and comfort when the breeze is up. Also traveller end being a different colour allows quick identification in a bundle of sheet on the tramp.

Confession #2: I suspect my mainsheet is still too long. Cut out 2 metres before sailing yesterday, but even so. I may have inherited a reluctance/phobia of removing too much from any length of rope, so most bits on my boat are longer than they should be.

I'm going to remove another metre (hopefully leaving just enough for running) and I'm going to replace the knot join to the traveller line with a splice - I suspect the knot is often the first bit to fall into the water and pulls the rest behind it.

Anyone with rope management tips for sport sailing please do post. Or alternatively have a good chuckle at my expense when we all meet in Devon.

Also anyone with their own questions or tips for new or improving Sport sailors do drop a reply here.

[Mark Aldridge]

Have to agree with you David that the sheets can quickly become a big problem and particularly if they get near the blades....

For me I know that I need enough mainsheet to have the traveller at the end stop which when it's windy enough is where it will be up wind and certainly where it will be if you want to trapeze the top reach with just letting off the traveller (plenty a good pitch pole can be had here!) and some in my hand when on the trapeze. This will mean there is excess for 'normal' upwind action.

It is even at it's very best a complete compromise and will get the better of you at some point that's for sure.

[Jan]

..oh and don't forget your bicycles for the Barnstaple Beer run along the Tarka Trail..

Looking forward to seeing you all and especially the cycle..
My practice will be like yours Mark, on the way out to the line..

See you all soon
Jan

[edchris177]

ver here, across the Pond, on the wire, or double trapped is the norm unless winds are light. When sailing the Nacra 5.7, H18, or even the Nacra 5.0 in higher wind, one simply cannot really power up the rig by sitting on a hull, & hiking out gets pretty tiring if you’re doing any distance.
I use the trap on my Dart 15 on higher wind days &especially once the water cools down. We’re still at 20C water, but that will drop quite soon. In rough conditions, the Dart is a wet ride, & being on the wire keeps you up out of the spray. With a south wind we have a 40 mile fetch, & the seas stack up to where green water crosses the tramp. As mentioned, grippy tape is a must to keep your feet from being torn away.
Many of the sanctioned race events require the use of hookups like the Bethwaite design, using a ball instead of a hook. The danger with the hooks is getting caught up in the standing rigging during a turtle event. No knife can cut through wires while your being driven many feet under. Several fatalities, including one during an America Cup capsize brought the ball systems to favour.
The adjustable traps are great, they allow one to be more upright if wind does not require a full plank position, & also on rough seas where a full plank means the waves tear you off the boat.
An important thing on setting up- we rig all out traps so the bungee always provides an upward pull on the hook. You have to pull down in the hook, stretching the bungee, before you can hook up to your harness. This means when you let it go, bungee tension ensures the dog bone is held onto the harness hook, leaving both hands free to manage everything else that’s going on. Few things are funnier than watching someone who did hookup, (but without positive tension), let go of the dog bone for an instant, then quickly push out, only to find themselves demonstrating an impressive backflip as their boat sails away.
Until you get some experience, it is wise to have a tight hold of the “T” handle whilst pushing off.
Another thing I have done on most of my boats is change the dog bone from a steel device to a piece of stiff line inside a bit of plastic tubing. The tubing keeps the loop open. You will find that those steel dog bones sit at the exact height of your teeth, & numerous sailors have experienced chipped teeth from bouncing dog ones during choppy seas.
For those just getting into a harness, try several out. Putting one on in the store & liking it, is a far different thing than hanging on the wire for a couple of hours. Those early Hobie bum buckets are NOT comfortable for any length of time, but they are very light, & can be stuffed into the cabinet, easily retrieved if one is 10 miles down shore & the wind really picks up. They are tolerable if worn over a wetsuit, but if you are going to wear them for any amount of time, look for a harness with built in back support.
It takes a bit of practice to develop a rhythm of arranging your lines, pushing out & trimming sails, all whilst maintaining desired heading. Again, that T handle is your friend while learning. You will find moving fore/aft to balance the boat is easier while on the wire.
Finally, don’t underestimate how easy it is to Peter Pan your crew, or yourself if solo. The offshore guys use chicken lines to prevent being thrown forward when you stuff a hull, very few use foot loops, it is too easy to get a foot caught during a capsize.
Keeping your footing during high wind rough conditions is a challenge, your forward leg tires from being in a braced position.
When, (not if), you do find yourself swinging out & around the forestay the first reaction is to grab, or hook your arm onto the passing shroud. This can, & does often result in massive bruising of the arm... your choice, do I feel lucky today?
For those doing distance, or even say a 10 mile run, learn to love the wire. The Dart has a pretty conservative sail plan, but solo on either Nacra, H18, or my previous Mystere 6.0XL, a 20’ x 10’ Beast, the only way to pull power was solo or double trapped.

[edchris177]

I should have also added that with most dog bones, you have two options to hook up. Most people set things up using the lower section of the dog bone. However, you can also hook the upper part of the bone onto your harness, the ring where the line attaches.
This will give you a more upright position, without having to adjust anything.