Dart 15 Forums

Keith in Hong Kong wrote:

Well it's finally happened.....those skinny little rivets holding my jib sheet blocks have finally coughed.......

9 year old daughter, a few years of decay and an overzealous sheeting proved too much.......so now I want to go serious.

I know if I rivet them back in they'll not last....rivets in fibre glass......yeah right....might work for the manufacturers..!!

So.....back in June Bob mentioned an RWO track that would do the job.

How was it fixed Bob....did you have to drill out the other rivets just holding the tramp track in, or does the new track have a recess on the underside. Is there a rule on the overall length of the track and it's position.....(not that you guys will ever get to see/check!).

Finally.....am I being a whimp, or do all sprinters have an 18 type 2:1 jib sheet purchase and jammer.....you talked about jib 'fairlead'....mines a fixing point for the turning block/jammer....I don't run the sheet through it.

Next one.....has anyone got a good mainsheet setup.

Mines proving that Newton was right with his friction theories....got IYE plain bearing blocks, and just replaced the old IYE ratchet with a sexy Ronstan (arm/leg stumps now healing). That made a world of difference but the alignment is terrible still.....don't like the standard Dart 'bullet' blocks.......want to change to ball blocks.

So guy's what works....got any pictures??....manufacturers part numbers....that I can buy on-line

That's it.

Keith

Bob replied:

Hi Keith,
You need the following parts - all RWO
2 off 330mm track R2701
4 off end stops R2770
2 off adjustable eye R2560
You can get them all from pinnel & bax - web site
www.pinbax.com.

To fit you need lots of pop rivets. Drill off the old fairleads. Fill in one hole on each side with a pop rivet. The second hole is used to start fixing the tracks. Position the tracks roughly central to the old fairlead position (bias slightly forward if anything)using the existing hole left in the boat. Mark all the other fixing holes (4 per side), centre punch & drill the hulls. Pop rivet the tracks in pace. Seal all pop rivets with clear silicon seal. Place end stops in position. Mark and drill hulls (4 more holes!)Pop rivet end stops in position after locating the sliders on the tracks.
The whole job costs about ?40. I've done it on the last 5 Dart 15s I've owned and I have never had a problem once done.
All Dart 15s since #1200 come with Barton Blocks + integral clam cleat for the jib sheet. They don't seem to be listed in the catalogues I've got and there is no part number on them. The Laser Centre part number is D40365 - you need 2 off plus 2 off 2 off 2361
Best of Luck
Bob Carter

Keith in Hong Kong replied:

Thanks Bob.....I'll give it a go........

One point though......If it was so good......why did you go through 5 boats........!!

Cheers

Keith

Bob replied:

I like to change boats every couple of years. On the basis that you cannot have too much of a good thing. I currently have my eighth Dart 15 sitting in the garden. It my first new one, however, and has been fitted with Dart 18 tracks which are now standard on all new models.
Cheers
Bob

Keith in Hong Kong replied:

What....have you been made treasurer or summatt.....!!

Pete replied:

Shurely shom mishtake here. Class lore always had it that Bob Carter found his boats in barely-used condition at a knock-down price. Sounds like he's excelled himself this time:-)

Bob replied:

Hi Pete. Times change - good second hand boats have been incredibly hard to find so we ran this deal with the Laser Centre to sell new boats cheap. Well after setting it up, how could I not have one?
Cheers
PS I hope you and your family are well. How's Max?

Pete replied:

Max's fine thanks very much. He's a second year undergrad at the Royal Agricultural College in Cirencester. His latest hobby is kit cars (this after restoring an old Land Rover!). He's currently roaring about in a bright yellow fibreglass thing which, thinking about it, would take up the same amount of floorspace as a Dart 15!