Dart 15 Forums

I capsized my boat for the first time on Sunday, and managed to get her back up okay using the knotted rope around the mast that Nick Dewhirst suggested, and back on board over the front beam using the same line around the mast.

It was between getting her upright and climbing on board I had problems.
The boat was sailing along quite happily with me hanging onto the front beam. I had released the main, traveller and downhaul before getting her up, but the jib was still cleated and out of reach.

Our rescue boat came along and held the boat back to allow me to get on board, but is there any way of stopping the boat from sailing on her own (or at least slow enough not to drag me back under the tramp)?

Hi Dean,

When you get your boat on it’s side try walking along the hull towards the bow before you grab the tramp handles, this will point the boat into wind, which should reduce the chances of it sailing off on it’s own as you upright it and scramble on.

If its really windy then work yourself to the back of the boat and hang onto the rear beam. Then steer the boat into wind using the rudder connecting bar, once into wind, climb aboard between the rear beam and the connecting bar. I did this a few years ago at the Queen Mary winter open and it worked.

To assist climbing back on, my brother Andy, has some sail ties that he ties to the shrouds/beam and these have a long loop that is under the water which enables you to step into the sail tie and then up into the boat.

Keith 1840

Dean,

I can certainly vouch for making sure you are pointing into the wind. My first capsize (a few weeks ago) turned into my second and third as I pulled the boat up and was then blown straight back over. Bit of learning curve for me that afternoon.

Thanks for the tips.
I did have her head to wind before righting her but she did shear round as she came upright (I'm blaming cleated the jib for that).

I'll definitely bear in mind going to the back and steering her into the wind though...though Sunday was very windy and choppy.

Though I don't intend making a habit of tipping her over!

I would vote for a rope tied around the mast ball, with a loop in the end, so you can put your foot in it and step up, which helps. this works for the "heavier" customers at work. also i find climbing on the boat at the join of the beam and hull helpful as you can put one hand on the hull, and one on the beam, and it stops you getting your buoyancy aid caught. also try furling the jib when it is back on its side, it helps stop ot sailing off.

Well done Dean - only one of our 18s went out on Sunday for a jolly and capsized near Sand End Buoy before coming back ashore with the jib downhaul undone completely - gusted 39mph. The rest of us wimped out.

Uncleating and furling the jib before righting would help.

If you do want to get to the back to get onboard remember what we have done with our traveller ropes - loop end round the mast foot and then back to rear beam and thence throught to the traveller car. This is so you have something to hang onto all the way rather than try and catch the loops under the tramp - that could be pulled off.

Steve W

Good point.
It shows how we all differ. The only time I have tried to get on the boat over the rear beam it was horrible. The conbar is in the way. The gap between the conbar and the rear beam is very small. you are much better to sort it out at the front by the techniques listed here if you can.
The rear beam should be an option of last resort, in my view.
Cheers
Bob
PS Bow down to our Grubguru's superior knowledge. He gets lots of practice.

My difficulty is being a wheelchair user I have to pick my methods carefully (not that I take the chair on the boat)!

I found the righting and getting back on board (2 of my main worries beforehand) went fine with the knotted rope from the mastball.

One thing about the rope under the tramp Steve...do you put a knot both sides of the fixed track slide? I haven't and when I grabbed hold of the rope under the tramp in a sure and cocky manner, I immediately went back into the drink because the traveller had become uncleated! Luckily swearing doesn't carry underwater!

One more point --------- in heavy weather not only do I use a righting line tied around the mast ball but also the main halyard, hold one in each hand when your leaning back standing on the skeg, you’ll find it helps keep you balanced as the boat comes up.

I must also thank Bob for his vote of confidence but feel I must point out that my capsize technique was perfected by years of studying his inversions!!

Frank 1986

Yes Dean - a knot above AND below the beam clip.

Top one placed to keep the rope taut under the tramp - so it does not drag in the water when sailing. Bottom oneagainst the clip to minimise traveller movement.

As Bob says the back is more a last resort but we like to have the rope there so it is an easy resort. If you do use the stern then quickly check the rudders are down on their clips and the clips are on the con bar after you climb over.

As you are relying on upper body strength rather than using the righting line as a foot step try this:

On dry land run the mast foot righting line out and put a knot in it just before it gets to the hull - i.e. about 2 feet from the mast ball. Then pass the rope over, round and back up inside the hull to that knot and make another knot in the rope so that you can hold the two knots together in that position in one hand. Put other knots in as required but make sure you end up with the two knots so they can be held together.

Then as you right the boat keep hold of the rope and use one hand to hold those two knots together and the other to grab the footstrap on that side. This should give both hands enough leverage to enable you to pull yourself up and should be quick to achieve.

One of our guys keeps a small rope ladder attached to one footstrap (Iron Wharf chandlery in Faversham do a 5 rung one in a bag) as an alternative.

Give me a call on the telephone if you want me to describe it better.

regards

Steve

Cheers Steve